Monday 30 January 2012

How to make colorful clips for your ag doll

1.get a plain metal clip and paint it any color of your choice add a layer of Modge Podge to it.
2.after the Modge Podge has dried add a button a silk flower of your choice by sewing it on in between the gaps.
And your clip is done!!

      

How to make a sweet doll blanket the advanced way

I really love a good project that I can finish in one sitting with super cute results. Today I'll show you how I made some quick little doll blankets without measuring border pieces, but you could certainly use these same instructions to make a baby blanket. My favorite part of these blankies is the little fakey binding edge. It's such a cute detail!
SUPPLIES:
~ three coordinating flannels (or two if you don't do the fakey binding edge)
~ rotary cutter, ruler and mat
~ iron
~ sewing machine

GETTING STARTED: (These are measurements to make my doll blanket, which ended up 16"x20")
Cut main flannel (monkeys) 12"x18"
Cut two strips border flannel (pink) 2 1/2"x44" - piece together to make one long strip
Cut two strips "binding" flannel (orange) 1"x44" - piece together to make one long strip (OPTIONAL)
You also need backing fabric at least 18"x22" -- which happens to be FAT QUARTER size!


Step One: Line up your border fabric with one edge of your main flannel, with approximately 3/4" overhang at the TOP (where my finger is pointing in the photo).
Step Two: Sew along the edge, stopping about 2" from the end. Cut your border off leaving approximately 4" overhang at the end.

Step Three: Press approximately the first six inches.Step Four: Trim away the excess from the "top" of the strip. (This ensures that your next line to sew is straight.)
Step Five: Turn your blanket clockwise once so the first border you sewed on is at the bottom. Line up your pink border fabric the same way you did in step one and sew all the way down. Press and trim both sides of this strip. Repeat this step for the third border.
Step Six: Pull the end of the first border you sewed on out of the way and line up your pink strip the same way you did in step one. Sew all the way down, press, and trim both sides.
Step Seven: Finish sewing the first border. Press and trim. The top of your blanket is done!Step Eight: Lay your blanket top face down on your backing fabric. (You haven't cut this yet!) Pin approximately 1 1/2" inside the edge of the blanket all the way around. Cut the backing fabric with at least 1" extra fabric around the edges of the blanket top. (This gives you a little extra room!)

(If you aren't doing the little fakey binding edge, skip to step 10.)
Step Nine: Press your "binding" fabric with the wrong side inside all the way along the strip.

Step Ten: Line up your "binding" strip about 1/3 of the way down from one corner with the folded edge inside and the raw edges along the edge of your blanket top. Start sewing approximately 3" PAST the end of the binding so there is a 3" end of the "binding" unattached. (This will probably make more sense when you get to Step Twelve.)
Step Eleven: This is the tricky part! You are going to round off your corners slightly. When you get about 1" from the corner, stop with your needle down and lift the presser foot. Start turning your "binding" piece. Put the presser foot back down, take a few stitches, then stop, lift the presser foot and repeat. Make sure the edge of your foot runs along the edge of where your binding lies. Do this until you get all the way around the corner.
Step Twelve: After you get around the last corner and back to the beginning of your "binding," stop sewing a few inches ahead of the first end. (See photo.) Swing the two ends out from each other at a slight angle, and finish sewing. This is the easiest way to finish the ends of your "binding."

Remember: You have sewn all the way around the blanket without leaving a hole to turn it right side out.
Step Thirteen: Remove pins and trim the edges of your backing to match the top, cutting slightly closer around the corners for easier turning.

Step Fourteen: Using a seam ripper or sharply pointed scissors, cut the stitching on one of your edges between the center fabric and the border approximately 4". This is the hole through which you will turn your blanket.
Step Fifteen: Press the edge of your blanket.. (One bonus of your fakey binding is that it makes it much easier to get a crisp edge -- just pull on it as you press!) Topstitch around your blanket next to the binding first, then around the border, closing up the hole. I go right near the edge -- less than 1/8".
You're done!

Something else to try: Use rick-rack instead of the fakey binding for an extra fun detail!


How to make a sleepover bag for your ag doll

Today's Dollar Store Craft is a mini duffel bag for your dolly (or for yourself!). Your 18"doll can haul her dance clothes to the studio in style. Or, when she heads over to her friend's house for a sleepover, her pretty overnight bag will be the envy of all the other dolls!

All you need is one tote bag and a zipper. I had my zipper on hand, but you could purchase one at a crafts/sewing supply store. Or, if you are not opposed to a little seam ripping, check this out:All you need is one tote bag and a zipper. A dollar store backpack! That green zipper is exactly the right color -- and you can steal the black webbing straps as well. All for a buck!

(Note: For my duffel bag I used the body of one tote bag and the handles fSTEP NINE: Fold down the two short edges of your rectangles a scant 1/4". Crease with your finger.
rom another because I wanted contrasting handles)
STEP ONE: Cut apart your bag! I simply cut the sides away and removed the handles.
I ended up with a 24" x 13" rectangle, plus two strips of approximately 26" of straps.

STEP TWO: Cut out the pieces of your bag:
Cut a 7 1/2" x 10 1/2" rectangle for the main body. (On mine I was careful to center the motif.)
Cut two circles with 3 3/8" diameter. (Again, I centered the motif!)
Cut two strap pieces at 18" and one at 8".

STEP THREE: Fold your rectangle in half to find the center. Lay your handles as shown, with the raw ends of the handles about 1/4" from the center. I centered my straps carefully on the motif. Repeat for the other handle.
STEP FOUR: Sew your straps down. Don't sew them all the way up to the top edge! I stopped 2 1/2" from the top edge of the rectangle on either side.

STEP FIVE: Sew your 8" strap across the bottom center, covering the raw edges of your straps.
STEP SIX: Fold down the two short edges of your rectangles a scant 1/4". Crease with your finger.
STEP TEN: Attach your zipper to either side of your bag. My zipper was about 18" long, giving me plenty of extra space to get the job done without having to wrestle the bag and zipper.
STEP ELEVEN: Attach one circle to the first end of your duffel bag (not the one with the long zipper tail). If the motif on your circle is directional, be sure to get it right side up. The circle is actually quite easy to attach -- simply pull and rotate the circle around in front of the presser foot, matching the edges as you go.
STEP TWELVE: Sew the other circle on, starting a short distance away from the zipper and ending a short distance before you reach the other side of the zipper, as shown.
STEP THIRTEEN: Next, zip your zipper about 1/4" of the way across the body of your bag. You need to have plenty of room to turn your bag right side out through the zipper opening.
STEP FOURTEEN: Finish attaching your circle. I gave the zipper a little added stability by sewing a bar tack over the zipper teeth in the seam allowance.
STEP FIFTEEN: Cut off the excess zipper (don't use your good sewing scissors! I used my kitchen shears) and turn your back right side out. Done! Your doll is ready to pack up her duffel bag and head to her best friend's house for a sleepover!